Tuesday 25 September 2007

More Bogota

Spent yesterday just walking around the north town which isn´t very exciting as its just full of airline offices and expensive hotels. I did negotiate the tram though which is actually quite a feet. My experience, contrary to many stories Ive heard, is that Colombians are NOT helpful.

Today treated myself to a massage. The masseuse wore surgical gloves the whole time. Weird! and she wondered why I couldn´t relax. Went shopping..again. Im a brat. And then went to the cinema. Don´t bother seeing Paranoia. Its rubbish. It didn´t help either that I was surrounded by young couples with nowhere else to go. Felt guilty about not doing anything cultural so went to the Gold Museum and then to an artisans market. After 5 months here, all the markets are the same , selling the same hippy shit, which I have no interest in. I must be the only backpacker travlling that has resisted the urge to adorn my arms with rubbishy friendship braclets you used to give your freinds when you were 12.

Monday 24 September 2007

Bogota

Im in Bogota at the mo. The bus journey was quite hard. Its really expensive to go direct so I choose to get a bus to the Ecuadorian border, taxi across to the Colombian border and then a bus to Bogota. It took about 26 hours in total. Id done similar bus journeys in Argentina but its been months since Ive had to do one that long so it has taken its toll. Im absolutely knackered today. Quiet one tonight I think. I was finally (after 3 weeks of calling Iberia every day), able to book my flight home today. I´ll be home Oct 15th for those that want to meet up and get all the stories I couldn´t write on the blog........

Saturday 22 September 2007

More Quito

Ive been having a great laugh the last few days. I met up with the gang Ive been traveling with for ages after a short break apart. They have headed off to Colombia but I should meet up with them again along the way. Quito has loads of backpackers which makes a nice change from a lot of the places Ive been in Ecuador. Im spending most of my time with a funny Ozzie bloke that I met originally in Banos. I feel like Ive known him for years so we are having great craic together.

Ive been to loads of museums and churches, the best was an art museum showing an Andy Worhol exhibition which was really interesting. Also climbed the church tower which gives a great view of the old city.

We went to the Equator which was really underwhelming. Basically just a line and a monument. Definitely missable. And then we went to the real equator which was just down the road. Apparantly they didn´t have GPS when they drew the first line. So we paid again into the real line which was quite funny as you can balance an egg on a nail head and you can watch the water fall straight through a plug hole without it swirling.

Went to a Turkish baths today which wasn´t great cause the sauna and the steam rooms weren´t very hot which kind of defeats the purpose.

The best thing Ive done since I got here was go to visit the womens prison. We went to visit an Irish girl but it turns out she had already been released so we just chatted to the other foreigners who were all in for drug trafficking. It was very surreal but an incredible experience. We got to mingle with all the prisoners in the yard and their common room and we even got a tour of their bedrooms. The conditions were awful. The prison is doubly oversubscribed and overrun with children who are allowed live with their criminal mothers. Can you imagine growing up in a prison? The food looked terrible and the place was awash with inmates wandering around like zombies on drugs. Most of the foreigners are in there for 8 years minimum. They were all in fairly good spirits as we brought a load of chocolate, cigarettes, fresh veg etc and we all gave them money as well.

Apart from that Ive just been going out. The bars and clubs are amazing here. So are the shops. Ive bought a load of clothes which Ive no space for in my bag but Im just so sick of all the stuff Ive been wearing non-stop for the last 5 is it? months.

Im prob going to head to Colombia myself tomorrow if I can get my act together.

Monday 17 September 2007

Quito

Arrived in Quito last night and I love love love it already. Reminds me a bit of Cusco where I spent a month. Ill have to be careful. The hostel I choose was full which was a bit annoying but at least I know I choose a good one and Im goingt o move in there today. The day I left Peru I met an Irish guy on the bus. We got to chatting and it turned out his bank card wasn´t working or something. Feeling sorry for him, I lent him 20 dollars so that he could at least get something to eat before he reached his destinationand sorted it out. Turned out that 20dollars saved his life. His bags were put on the wrong bus and he had to get another bus somewhere to pick them up which he wouldn´t have been able to do without my money. Well, I met up with him last night for a few drinks and we had great craic. He brought me to a fancy bar/restaurant and had the best garlic prawns Ive ever eaten. Im so sick of the food in Ecuador. Its all chicken, rice and potatoes. Even if you want to go to nice places, there haven´t really been any....until now. The food in Quito is amazing.

Tena







Met up with Becky and the 3 of us spent the night in Banos then headed off by bus to the jungle town of Tena the next day. The bus journey was a nightmare. The good road didn´t last long and after that we were on a very bumpy dirt track. We were sat at the back (cause we are cool) and were being thrown violently around the place for about 3 hours. We made a short 10 min stop. The usual locals got on trying to sell us drinks, ice pops, fruit etc and then something Id never seen before- a portion of deep fried chicken and chips, hot, for 1 dollar. Sold!

Tena had a really nice feel to it. The buildings were all brightly coloured like the Carribean but kind of ramshakle. It was really humid and it rained most of the time but it was a warm rain. After two cocktails I was wrecked so went home early and let the youngsters party it out. I got up early the next morning and headed to the zoological gardens while they slept in the hammocks. Im not really into animals but it was something to do while the others slept and in the end I really enjoyed it. I saw all the animlas I should have seen in the jungle and loads more- monkeys, caymens, pumas, jaguars, turtles, and the rat-pig thing Id seen in Bolivia, that my zoooligist sister Sheena informs me is actually called "a capybara, largest rodent in the world and very cute". Hmm- you can tell who the animal lover is!

Becky has decided to stay in Tena to do a 3 day rafting trip and some ecological work in the jungle so yesterday I loved her and left her and headed to Quito with my highly intellegent Romanian who speaks much better English than I do and kept me entertained on the 5 hour bus journey cause it was too bumby to read.

Puyo







When I was booking my tour I was told there were 2 Ozzies doing it with me. I asked what age and they said, just a bit older than you, so Im thinking 30ish! They were about 50-60. Damm it, I thought but actually we had a a really nice day. They were really cool and I have mucho respect for them travelling around South America at their age. I hope Im as active.

We went to an indigineous village in the morning. I wasn´t totally convinvced. Im sure I saw a flicker of a tv and there were football boots lying around. Its not that I dont expect them to advance, I just got the distinct impression, a lot of what we were shown was for show. I was offered a tribal henna from a woman. With images of the fabolous Indian wedding henna in mind, I agreed, only to be horrified when it was done. The woman drew a pathetic looking butterfly on my arm, and then wanted to get paid. Despite scrubbing it off (out of view) Im told itll still last 2 weeks as it dyes the skin immediately.

Afterwards we walked through the jungle and learnt about the healing properties of the plants. The photo is of me snorting some plant that helps sinus problems. It was like shoving a chilli pepper up there. As you can see from the look on my face, Im not used to snorting things up my nose! There was a distinst lack of animals but we were only in the secondary part of the Amazon and you need to go further east into the thick of it to see any. Then took a dugout canoe down one of the rivers. Overall it was a good day, I was just expecting a lot more. The way Ms Brennan in 2nd year geography made it sound was much more interesting. I got a lift back to Banos that night as I didn´t really like Puyo and my mate Becky had just arrived there. I dragged along an 18year old Romanian boy that I met who was by himself.

Thursday 13 September 2007

Banos rocks







Its been a laugh a minute the last few days. My friend Laura from Ireland arrived and needless to say weve been on the piss the last few nights. We met a great group of Ozzy & Irish lads so you can imagine the drinking and the messing that went on. One of the guy´s Mum is a gymnastics teacher, so we had a bit of a gymnastics off. Its been a while since Ive done the crab and I need to work on holding that handstand longer. During the day Ive been a busy bee as well. I went cannoying which is about the only adventure sport I haven´t done yet in South America. Its sort of a mix of absailing down waterfalls and gorge walking. I also booked a private rock climbing and bouldering lesson, followed by rappelling. It was so enoyable but Im aching badly today all over. Even laughing hurts my ribs. I got my hair chopped. The split ends were a disgrace. And I had a facial so feel great. Went to the local hot springs last night. Roasting hot water comes direct from the nearby volcano for the baths. Incredible.

The lads were going a different way from me so Ive split with them and am back on my own in a town called Puyo. Banos was by the far the nicest place Ive been in Ecuador so Im sad to leave but I must press on. I checked three hostels here in Puyo but there are no gringos staying in any of them so I really am on my own again. Ah well. Ive got a tv in the room and Ive booked an Amazon jungle tour for tomorrow.

Monday 10 September 2007

Volcano Trek


Banos is a town on the edge of the Oriente so its really lush here and much more like what I thought Ecuador would be. Yesterday I went on a very ardous trek through a cloud forest up a volcano. Any fitness I may have gained from my Salkantay trek has promptly been lost due recent excessive boozing. I thought I was going to die. Luckily there was also a Dutchy Holland girl who was also really slow so it looked like we were both holding up the group, rather than just me. Our unfitness was highlighted by the fact that the others in our group were Americans who studied health and fitness and were obviously very active. Afterwards, we got to cycle down, and even though, they said they were keen mountain bikers, I flew past them. No fear. Maybe no sense either.

I went out last night with the Dutch girl which ended my recent detox. I was pissed after 3 drinks. What a joke. But they were large ones. And I hadn´t eaten much that day. Ha Ha. It was a fun albeit short night. Shes been living here for a month so we went out with all the locals and I got to speak Spanish all night, which I haven´t done in a while.

Saturday 8 September 2007

Banos




Spent the morning at a local market in Riobamba. The meat section used to make me want to vomit but ive been at so many bmarkets now that I must be building up a tolerance for all the pigs heads and trotters. The hygiene is horrendous and there are always dogs running in and around the meat.Its no wonder Ive been sick so often.

Took a bus to Banos today. Im completely paranoid that all Ecuadorians are trying to rob me. Ive been totally on edge since the incidence with the taxi man. Every time I get a bus here Im convinved that my rucksack will be taken out of the baggage hold or that my dag bag will be stolen from above my head. Ive heard stories of both happening in all South American countries but until now I haven`t been worried. Not seeing any other gringos is starting to unnerve me as I stand out a mile in every place Ive been so far ad I feel like a target. Slightly paranoid maybe.

My first choice of hostel was full so Im staying in another nice one with my own private room with bathroom and tv. I took a tour today to see all the waterfalls in the area, hoping there would be some gringos on the tour as well- it was me and 20 Ecuadorians. It turns out this is where they all come for their holidays. This one weirdo latched onto and wouldn`t stop talking to me. I entertained him for as long as I could but when we got off to see one of the waterfalls up close I just legged it on ahead, even with my bandaged ankle. The poor simpleton ended up falling in the water with all his clothes on. He wouldn`t leave my side after that, and I felt bad, so I ended up talking to him. I dont feel like hitting the bars by myself tonight so I think Ill just go home and watch tv. Dont feel too sorry for me. One of my ex-scouts Laura is arriving here on Monday so Ive only got one more day of solitude before we rip up the town.

Friday 7 September 2007

Devils Nose Train & Riobamba


I was at the train station for 7.50am this morning. Just as well. I was second in the queue that formed (gringos appeared out of nowhere) and some people were left disappointed today. The normal train isn´t running at the moment because of the weight of it but a substitute one carriage train is running instead but it only holds 40 people. On the original train you could ride on the roof but we were told that this isn´t allowed on the current train. After much pressure and a bribe of $1 each we persuaded the condutor to let us get up top. Not bad for him seeing as about 30 of us availed of the offer. In hindsight, I reckon they do this every day, making themselves a tidy profit on the side. The track we went down was incredibly, built into the side of the mountain. It worked on a series of switch-backs zig-zaging its way down the mountain so at times we were going backwards. The train was mainly full of a group of uni students from Washington which sort of wrecked the journey a bt with all the girls high pitched screeching. The Japenese girl wasn´t looking so bad after all and we eneded up sharing a hotel room together today in Riobamba.

I spent the afternoon visiting museums- mostly displaying traditional art, dress and other textiles. The most interesting place I visited today was a converted convent which houses a collection of religious artefacts mostly from the 16th? centrury. It was really amazing to see everything that was brought over by the Spanish when they were converting the locals. A lot of the artwork and statues were unlike anything Ive seen before. The museums greatest treasure is a priceless gold monstrance which was impressive.

Thursday 6 September 2007

Cuenca and Alausi


The bus to Cuenca took hours longer than expected. We got dried salted bananas as a snack. Ive got diahorea again probably because of the change in water from Peru. The bus journey was not enjoyable but I survived with a few well timed stops from the driver. The hostel was like the Ritz in comparison to the night before but there didn´t seem to be anyone else staying there so I went off for the day on my own. I just walked around the town taking photos of all the pretty colonial buildings and then I visited a museum detailing the history of local hand crafts from the region. I went to a flower market and then for dinner in a busy restaurant by myself. I spent the time reading my guidebooks to plan my next move. Even though there are ruins nearby to Cuenca, I decided to press on further north today and so got another bus to Alausi.

Again it took hours longer than expected. There had been a landslide along the way and big trucks cleaning up the debris blocked the road for hours. I was starving today but I was too scared to eat anything at the places we stopped on the bus. They didn´t have chips just manky soups containing chicken feet and whole eggs. I found an ok hotel in Alausi but there doesn´t seem to be anyone else staying there apart from an Asian girl who doesn´t speak any English. She has some Spanish but her accent is too strong so I gave up hanging out with her. There are no other gringos to be seen. Its been kind of lonely with noone to speak to for the last 3 days but I guess its just another South America experience. I should be pleased to at least be off the gringo trail for a few days. I spent the afternoon climbing a nearby hill, at the top of which is a massive statue of San Pedro. They are mad for their statues over here. I managed to find a place that served chips for dinner but now my stomach is grumbling again. Fingers crossed it wont be at me all night. After dinner I came to do emails but the whole town had a powercut. Ive finished my latest read and desperately need to meet a gringo if only to swap books or Im going to go out of my mind. Its very boring sitting in a dark room with noone to talk to so I went out on the street and made friends with some locals. Noone has heard of Ireland. Most know Spain, they just dont know where it is. Im still a bit creeped out by all the men since meeting that taxi driver, so didn´t stay long when they started asking me if I had a boyfriend. The reason I came to this wee town is because I want to get a train tomorrow along a very famous stretch of the track called the Devils nose which is supposed to be incredibly scenic but everyone I asks gives me conflicting info. Some say I need to go to the station at 8am, others say 9am, 11am and 2pm. Others say the train is not running tomorrow. Who knows. This is typical South America so I just have to laugh and get up early tomorrow. I dont wont to be stuck here an extra day.

Wednesday 5 September 2007

Machala- day from hell




The bus to Machala in Ecuador was supposed to pick me up at 1.30pm. It arrived at 4.10pm. Apparantly it had broken down twice and had gotten a blow out on its 24 hour journey before meeting me. The bus was mainly full of Ecuadorian shoolboys who were really giddy and smelly. It was supposed to be a four hour journey but border crossing took much longer than expected and we kept stopping for what appeared like no reason (maybe the engine was cooling). I hadn´t eaten before the bus so I was starving when I fianlly arrived at 11pm.

There was a small dispute over the price of my ticket. The lady in agency had told me 50soles and thats all I had left of Peruvian currency but the driver wanted me to pay 68soles which I didn´t have. He relented but in the end but got his own back by not droppng me in the town centre. I was the only person getting off there. Instead he dropped me in the suburbs which saved him some time. I hadn´t a clue and only realised when it was too late.

My taxi to the centre was a complete nightmare. After loading my bags the driver motioned for me to sit in the front and absentmindedly I did. Mancora is roasting, so I was travelling in a short denim skirt and flops thinking Id be arriving in Machala at about 5.30pm. The taxi driver turned on the inside car lights and proceeded to stare at my bare legs instead of the road. I turned it off but by this stage I had realised through conversation that he was a little weird. He persisted on practising his English with me even though my Spanish was clearly ten times better. I think he learnt his phrases from pop songs cause nothing he said quite made sense. We got to the town centre and he didn´t seem to know where he was going. We finally got on the right street but I couldn´t find the hostel and he kept wanting to turn off the road and ´go around the block´. I was really scared at this stage. He hit the central locking button and I freaked so he opened it again. I opened my car door and he pulled over. He let me get my bags and then I paid him. He completely ripped me off by charging me 10dollars but at this stage I just wanted away from him so I didn´t bother arguing. I found the hostel I wanted to stay in but it was closed and there was no bell. The area was well dodge. Scared out of my shite, I found another hotel. It cost 38dollars a night which was crazy money so despite being scared I decided Id walk the 4 blocks to another hostel. My bags weighed a ton and my ankle killed. The area was really run down and there was some dodgy characters around. I wondered if I had been stupid not paying the extra money to be safe and then I saw a sign for another hostel. Thank god. I went upstairs to reception relieved until I was taken to my room. It was disgusting. Really reminded me of the place Leo stays in, in the movie ´the beach´. There were two beds with only stained bottom sheets. Thank god I had a sleeping bag with me. It had a really creepy, dingy feel to it. The bathroom was also filthy with no running water in the toilets and the smell of urine was wafting into the room. There was a huge 5ft by 5ft window in the room but one of the two panes of glass was missing. Thats right-missing! and below was the tin roof of a shelter, that I thought someone could climb on and get in. But at least there was a lock on the back of the bedroom door. I was completely freaked at this stage but couldn´t face going back out onto the dodgy street. I calmed myself and went to bed. I found a sleeping tablet that someone had given me for a long bus journey that thankfully I hadn´t taken. I took that and fell asleep. When I got up this morning at 9am, everything was fine. The street was busy and things didn´t seem as bad but Id no interest in sticking around that filthy, dirty, scary city so got the first bus out of there to Cuenca today.

Bye Bye amigos


I twisted/ sprained? my ankle swimming in the sea a few days ago. The waves which were a great laugh, knocked me off my feet and when I relanded I went over on my ankle. Its all swollen and purple but I ve straped it up and hopefully it will be fine in a few days.

Being in Mancora was like having a holiday within a holiday. Down to the beach every day to sunbath, nice meal in the evening, few(!) drinks etc but after 8 days of it Ive had enough. I made the brave decision to leave the group who Ive been with since Cusco, ages ago. They all want to stay chilling and Andy, the South African is still waiting his replacement passport and cant go anywhere. Im gutted to leave them as its been so much fun but this way Ill get to see more of Ecuador as they are just going to fly through it. Ill probably meet them again in Colombia. Itll be a good detox for me in the interim. The only one I wont see is Becky whos been my best friend for nearly 2 months now. Gutted. My last night out was wicked. We went for Sushi, then heaps of Pisco Passionfruit, then back to the room for a party and onto the beach for some more messing. I got to bed at 5am and so missed by bus the next morning. Thankfully I was able to organise another bus for that afternoon. I dont think I would have been able to handle another goodbye party.